path: root/www
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authorDaniel Stenberg <>2004-04-13 08:18:50 +0000
committerDaniel Stenberg <>2004-04-13 08:18:50 +0000
commit4c3b61c5c881144544c35cea80d9af36decfce50 (patch)
tree989c36f75bbe25be4b33522415e7740c1345c658 /www
parent4bf9733f967cecc51e2d712ec5101872da76b5a1 (diff)
Peter van Hardenberg's excellent "repair your LCD" guide, pretty rough
<pre> version of his mail, but still... git-svn-id: svn:// a1c6a512-1295-4272-9138-f99709370657
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+#define _PAGE_ Repair Your LCD
+#include "head.t"
+Author: Peter van Hardenberg
+My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm
+typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too.
+Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what?
+PART 1: Getting a new screen.
+You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where
+to get one.
+Part number: G112064-30
+Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan
+Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to
+listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at:
+For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60
+minimum just to look at it.)
+PART 2: Disassembling the Frame
+This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx
+bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to
+take the box apart.
+PART 3: Desoldering
+There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are
+three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at
+the top end. The side points are structural, but the top two (which are on
+either side of the microphone) supply power to the hard drive. I am not
+going to tell you how to desolder a joint. That is up to you. I found it
+helpful to use a small tool to lift up the joints as I worked, seperating
+the side ones individually and then gradually working out the top ones. I
+certainly hope you are more competant at desoldering than I.
+The two electronics boards inside the Archos are connected by a paralell
+connector, much like the one you find on the back of your hard drives,
+though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will
+stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by
+several wires. Don't break them.
+NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires
+embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier.
+NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work,
+make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of
+simple scotch tape worked for me.)
+BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work!
+Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is
+for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative.
+PART 3: The New LCD
+Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of
+the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector.
+When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation
+(duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back
+down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful
+with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile.
+PART 4: Test!
+Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board
+so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the
+microphone! Now you can plug the unit into the AC adapter to see if the
+LCD works. You should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or
+something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you
+can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3.
+PART 5: Resolder
+UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.)
+Resolder the two top connections (the ones by the mic).
+PLUG the archos back in. The hard drive should spin up. Nothing much more
+will happen until you put the batteries in though. (I think, I can't quite
+Okay, good. Unplug the Archos again.
+IMPORTANT: When you resolder the frame points, make sure you don't leave
+any pointy bits of solder poking into where the batteries run. I did, and
+they scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame,
+melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling
+awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to
+put the tape back on if you removed it.
+PART 6: Reassemble the Archos!
+Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber
+bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site
+about how to put them on the right way.
+Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your
+firmware, I bet it's out of date!
+In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone
+qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few
+things about my Archos though, and I look forward to trying some of the
+other mods.
+I'm sure there are people out there (real pros) who are horrified at what
+I have written. Please, correct any mistakes I have made in this document
+so future 'boxers don't have to go through the hours of stress and strain
+I did.
+#include "foot.t"